Client requested an additional wardrobe in the same style as this existing one built by the previous owner, in the same style
First, pull out all the old skirting and create a flat level plinth for the new unit to sit on.
Due to the tight access arrangements I made the unit in a knock down style using Festools Connector System for a solid and rigid frame. Unit 18mm mdf with banded edges
The client needed to retain the double socket which would be behind the wardrobe, the neatest solution was to reroute new cables through the unit to exit the side. All connections are under the plinth using wagos and a wago box
Sliding the unit into place was tight with the old walls being out of square. Scribed infil to the left wall and quadrant to the chimney breast (to match the existing finish on the other unit). Finish off patching the picture rail and skirting to meet the unit
The client didn't require hanging rails so its shelved out with one fixed and four adjustable shelves edged with 50x25 par to prevent sagging.
All shelves in place
Doors fitted and aligned using Blum 71MB3550 Blumotion hinges for perfect fit. The moulding detail is just a 20mm ogee planted on to match the dimensions of the existing wardrobe
All finished ready for the painter to do his thing
A brief look to give an idea of the types of work I have carried out. Click on the images below to see a brief description and more images.
Its always good practice to leave the boards acclimatising to the room temp for 48 hours before fitting
Carefully rolling the carpet & underlay back, this will be used in the clients study
We carefully removed the original skirting to reuse once the new floor was down; this saves on cost and fitting time as we know it will fit perfectly!
Mid fit and its going down really well, flooring was supplied by the client via Costco.
The original skirting & electric fire refitted
door rails and stiles machined out of tulip wood for stability
ploughed to take the 6mm mdf centre panel
fitting the drawer runners
checking the fit for the drawers
I used 15kg runners for safety, they'll never hold that much so plenty of margin
drawer boxes after two coats of varnish for protection
First door front glued and clamped up, as in the base units I used the domino jointer for strength
more doors clamped up
cleaning up the joints prior to dry fitting
I love using tulip wood, its so easy to work with and has great stability attributes
First pair dry fitted for size, pretty good gapping all round
Door fronts and drawer fronts on
I'd made a miscalculation on the amount of tulip wood I needed to make 4 separate drawer fronts so decided on two drawer fronts and two 'drawers within a drawer'. It actually works out really well aesthetically.
I was playing around with some small offcuts of stripwood and came up with the idea of having a dedicated plane drawer to satisfy my OCD tendencies!!
A backing of green felt to protect the soles of the plane and a raised 'step' to keep the blade off of the base
I'm really happy with how this turned out and will offer it as an additional service to clients ordering work benches
Cabinet Doors & drawers
Start with a substantial plinth that won't move.
Cover it with ply, mdf or in this case some 12mm sterling board, this will be the floor of your units
ripping down the 18mm birch faced ply for the cabinets
Sides and rails cut to size, the great advantage to using birch ply is that the laminates are solid, no gaps in the structure
Sides and rails glued and clamped. I used dominos in the joining edges for strength after notching out for the rails
One of the pair glued up and in position; this is a far simpler process for making cabinets, whether for garage or workstop storage or a high end kitchen - just the material used changes.
I used some 18mm mdf for the worktop that I had lying around in the shop, doubled up for strength and glued/screwed together.
clamped up waiting for the glue to set
I edged the worktop with some softwood to protect the soft edges of the mdf, it stands 3.5mm proud of the mdf to allow for a wearing sheet of hardboard; once that gets damaged it can simply be replaced rather than replacing the whole worktop
A protective coat of oil over the hardboard and edging to give it a nice finish.
Love to see the oak grain appearing once you start putting a coat of varnish on the door
REPLACEMENT OAK VENEER DOORS
Original cladding was in pretty poor shape
The original cladding was in poor condition and had been badly fitted
Builder had used polythene to cover the insulation resulting in condensation build up
After covering in a suitable breathable membrane we fitted new 115x14 redwood TGV cladding
Ready for a final coat of Superdec
Replacement of external cladding to dormer windows
Finished front bay ready for final coats of paint
The rear box frame existing cladding and frame was starting to show its age; rot damage and damage caused by the window fitters
Rot had eaten through in places resulting in the whole front frame needing to be replaced
Scaffold was a must for this part of the job
The window 'fitters' haven't done a very good job
Aluminium extrusion cills should be a perfect fit, not filled with silicon!
This is beyond shoddy workmanship! the gap was filled with part filler foam and part paper tissues!!! The client has made a formal complaint abbout the company that supplied/fitted them.
Plenty of insulation but the plastic sheet will need to go and be replaced with a breathable membrane
Cuttingh the new lower box frame support
New front frame fitted and ready for cladding supports
Breathable membrane fitted ready for new cladding
Finished box frame repaired and new TGV cladding ready for painting.
After removing the old rotten framework we installed the new central frame and edging (in light grey primer) and started fitting the new cladding
bottom bay nearing completion
Same for the upper bay but with the added issue of matching it in with the soffits, the eagle eyed will notice that the original soffit risers were a board deeper on the r/h side than on the l/h side. 30 minutes of head scratching to resolve that!
Finished job ready for painting. Whole job took around 3.5 days
Replacement of external cladding AND BOX FRAME
Replacement entrance porch